In April 2010 I had the crazy idea to start a vintage online business.
While homeschooling two little kids.
While never having had a class in business or studying a single book on the topic of either vintage clothing OR business.
No investors. No savings. No connections.
What I did have: a closet full of items I was ready to part with, a verve to hunt for more, an ample amount of research skills, a fairly keen visual sense, love of style, and faith that I could figure this out.
It also helped that I had chutzpah to ask shameless questions.
I read what I could about selling on Etsy and off I went. Part-time. Husband paying the bills so not too much pressure....
And in the pic below, it's 2016 -- I am newly divorced, in a new apartment with my kids aged 13 and 8, and really scared that I couldn't pull it off as an actual full-time business.
But I did.
SO THIS POST IS A CELEBRATION !!
I started back before "thrift" became a verb and wearing used clothing was sooner associated with lack of income rather than sustainability let alone "fashion".
Sure, bohemian types have always found inspiration at their local Salvation Army store, but for most, vintage clothing was something a costume designer sourced for a "period piece".
Unlike today's highschoolers, when I was that age, only weirdos bought used clothes. And proudly.
I'm at left on both
THE NAME!
At first, all the vintage shop names I came up with sounded super cheezy, predictable, or pretentious. I settled on honoring my great-grandmother Basya Berkman (who was a seamstress as well as the beloved family matriarch), and came up with the clunky, but, for me meaningful name of "Basya Berkman Vintage Fashions". I operated under it until 2018 when my closest supporters convinced me it was un-googleable!
Prom night, 1991, and I take a pic with...yep, my great-grandmother!
My aunt Vicky made my dress from my own poorly drawn design. Vicky herself wouldn't hae gone into sewing/fashion design if it wasn't for Basya.
THE MODELS!
Clothes aren't really alive until they are on a body, and I continue to prefer live models to mannequins, when feasible.
In the beginning, I used anyone at hand who would agree!
I've certainly been lucky to have people who don't normally model say yes to me.
Here's a smattering of some of the regulars!
Sabine, my daughter, was three when she started!
I recruited my friend Rada as soon as she returned from grad school!
Fellow Homeschooling mom Ellen would model while our kids played with legos
Kara
Carley I met through a photographer I knew, and Erica ended up as our unofficial au pair as she moved in with us for a while!
Natalie
Megan, a trained dancer and fellow teen from our homeschooling community was a heavy regular until she moved to SF!
Sister duo Hailey & Tegan
Monica and Dana - lovely teens from the homeschooling world!
And, of course, the girl who walked into my first pop-up in 2018 as a customer and walked out as the face of RareJule Vintage, Lindsey!
The photoshoot shenanigans between 2012-2014, (or whenever Erica and Rada both showed up) were particularly legendary!
And Sabine liked to be a part of things as much as possible!
THE FASHION SHOWS !
Within six months of opening up my Etsy shop, thanks to a friend of a friend, I was invited by the great Late Bar to produce and narrate a live fashion show with my favorite pieces. I over prepared of course and wrote a whole script which introduced each outfit in great detail and included historical and social information for context. Thank you, Susan Patnode Photography for capturing the evening!
Note that Rada here is wearing the same hat that my toddler was modeling (scroll up!). When it sold on Etsy, Erica's friend Fei was the model!
Analise wears a 60s pink playsuit! Note that the old store name "Basya Berkman" is on the screen behind her!
At the end of the night, we had an epic dance party! I left the night thinking: I can do this!
***
And I did it again. Eight years later I was asked to collaborate with In the Realm of Senses which partnered with Chopin theater for a multi-sensory extravaganza called Sensuous: " A special Valentine’s show featuring a sensory fashion show of the clothes of 1950s and hats of iconic Chicago hat designer, Bes-Ben with 33 of his rare hats, paired to unique scent by master perfumer Christophe Laudamiel, and unique artworks based on Chicago architecture of Leonid Osseny."
We planned the whole show in under a month.
I almost pulled out after suffering from imposter syndrome.
I made no profit but gained a ton of self-confidence and creative satisfaction.
I had just changed the shop name to "RareJule Vintage" and the new logo is visible behind Hailey here, sporting this fur capelet
THE VINTAGE FASHION !
And some of it was truly epic. A few highlights --
THE CUSTOMERS !
I couldn't do this without all the wonderful vintage fashion lovers who have sustained this enterprise! Thank you, dear customers, for trusting me to adorn you!
Few things are more satisfying than receiving mages of the items I sold taking their place out in the world!
From weddings to commercials, theater productions to magazine editorials - here is a small selection of where some of my vintage items "ended up" !
THE POP-UPS!
In 2018, I was strictly an online seller until I had the nerve to ask Swantiques if she would include me in her extensive and aesthetically stunning pop-ups focusing on midcentury furniture and decor. I thought it was a long shot!
We began a wonderful six year journey popping up many times along the north side.
With these in-person selling events, I was finally able to physically meet customers, and some of them became good friends!
Special shoutout to Heather@Hallwayoffashionwho has been an incredibly supportive customer and friend! Seeher cool blog.
(IN CONCLUSION)
A Random List of What I've Learned
Trust my instincts
Not everyone will help but no one will help if I don't ask
Most people are really supportive and kind
Everyone loves a good story
People think this job is "glamorous" but secretly wonder how I make ends meet
Purple, orange, and yellow are the hardest colors to find for vintage clothing. And the easiest to sell.
A lot of women have way too much clothing
Many folks are grateful to GIFT you their older clothing because they want to see them out in the world having fresh adventures
Very few people consistently and intentionally wear clothing from before the 80s, but the ones who do are very dedicated
It takes a lot more than physical beauty or build to be a good model
Models who can dance (or at least love to) are the best
Many women feel VERY VERY vulnerable when it comes to "dressing up"
Vintage clothing IS heavier and less comfortable, which is partly why it lasts longer and holds its shape better. Taking the easy path comes with trade-offs.
People really were smaller. Feet too.
Most women wore some sort of elaborate (by current standards) shapewear under their garments up until the mid 1960s. Clothes from those times reflect that and often don't transfer over to present day aesthetics
Most people don't care whether it's "TRUE" vintage or not. They just want the vibe. Context is everything.
Natural light is the best for capturing fabric except for teal / aquamarine - it either looks too blue or too green!
When it comes to fashion (vintage or not) most guys want to find the sweet spot between three things: being comfortable - not looking like a fool - pleasing their lady
Style has nothing to do with trends or brands
Style has nothing to do with age or shape, but everything to do with vigor and proportion
They really do dress better in Europe
My least favorite part of this business is anything regarding Quickbooks (help?)
Marketing is my second least favorite part of this business (internship available! Reach out!)
You don't need to make a lot of money to live "the good life" if your priorities are aligned. I generally have lived on a fairly limited budget and managed to solely fund a trip to Ukraine for me and the kids back in 2019. Also, all the designer silk scarves I sell go toward daughter's college fund!
The freedom, creativity, and integrity that comes from working for myself, being accountable to only myself, is worth all the financial unpredictability
Change your clothes/ change your mood
Change your mood / change your life
Thanks to all who supported, bought, sold, photographed, bartered, promoted, advised, networked, rummaged, styled, and shlepped with me!
