Vintage 1984 Chanel Necklace Gold Chain Baroque Pearl Couture Runway Lagerfeld

Vintage 1984 Chanel Necklace Gold Chain Baroque Pearl Couture Runway Lagerfeld

Double-strand Chanel necklace from the Fall 1984 couture collection, pairing a heavy gold-plated chain with a second strand alternating chain and hand-wired baroque glass pearls, the two engineered to hang together as a single piece. The pearls are deliberately irregular — uneven, lustrous, no two alike — in the manner of freshwater baroques rather than the uniform rounds costume jewelry of the period usually ran to.

Substantial in the hand, with an oversized spring-ring clasp and an oval cartouche hang tag stamped CHANEL © 1984 beneath the interlocking CC, and Made in France on the reverse.

The necklace appears on the runway of the Chanel Fall 1984 couture show, worn by Ines de la Fressange, the house's defining face of the Lagerfeld years. The photograph is by Michel Maurou for WWD and is held in the Getty Images archive as asset 1430294617. The Fashion Institute of Technology's Special Collections holds slides from the house's 1984 shows in its Runway Show Slides Collection, SC.497, folder 207. The 1984 date also places the piece at the start of Victoire de Castellane's fourteen years designing costume jewelry for Chanel under Lagerfeld, the tenure she left in 1998 to take over fine jewelry at Dior. Acquired from a private Chanel couture collector; believed purchased directly from the Chanel boutique.

Note that the 1984 cartouche dates the stamp, not the design, and Chanel used a season stamp across a production year. The necklace in the runway frame matches this one in construction, a plain chain strand worn with a second strand alternating chain and baroque pearls, and the pearls share the same irregular character. Link gauge cannot be resolved at the resolution of the available photographs, so that comparison is left open rather than claimed.

Condition: Excellent. No visible wear to plating. Pearl lacquer intact throughout.
Length: 17" clasped, laid flat.
Materials: Gold-plated base metal; glass baroque pearls
Authentication: © 1984 CC oval cartouche stamp, Made in France

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